So here it is, the big day - southern Africa's biggest tourist trap, I mean attraction. It's a quiet morning; my night at the backpacker's dive granted me free admission to the falls.
I could hear the quiet hum of the falls from a distance; and wandering through the stone pathways to the falls was actually quite pleasant. And then I got to the first viewpoint. Oh, there it is.




It's actually a very long waterfall; about a kilometre or so. The longest drop is about 105 metres or so. On the Zambian side you can get quite close to the falls, and there are no restrictive barriers put up between the soaking pathway opposite the falls and the gigantic cliff which you can fall into. And on top of that, it's very quiet. There are very few people mulling about, which is nice.








I crossed a slippery little bridge and continued further along the falls. Welp, yup, it's nice all right. And hard to get a really good picture of, unless perhaps if you're in a.... balloon. But the best thing I saw on the Zambian side were all of those thilly thilly tourithts risking their pathetic lives to crawl up to the edge of "danger point" on the Zimbabwe side of the river and look aaallll the way down. In their raincoats, of course. I wonder if anyone's gone down this thing in a barrel.
The Zambia side's nice and quiet; and now it was time to head over to the Zimbabwe side. Although walking across the bridge that connects the two countries - the Zambezi Bridge - I think I caught the best view of the waterfalls available, and it was free. So if you're really on a budget, here's my suggestion: just catch a view of the falls on the bridge, and don't bother with the ridiculous admission prices on either side. You'll be just as impressed, and sixteen U.S. dollars richer.




...And finally into Zimbabwe. It's exactly what I had been expecting, except perhaps not as extreme - everyone is hassling you in this little Victoria falls town for something; it's pretty much like any other major tourist attraction located in a third world country. And I've been hassled a lot worse than this before.
Certainly, the falls are impressive; I'm having lunch at a little fast food dive right now, but after I think I will brave the Zimbabwe side of the falls. And don't forget to check out The Kingdom hotel when you're on the Zimbabwe side. Las Vegas in Africa. Casino, resort, made entirely of Disneyland style materials. This little town is like Whistler village back in Vancouver - completely contrived and fabricated, but the fact that it's so successful tells you something about the calibre of tourists who are coming here. If you want the real Africa, stay far away. Go to Zambia.
I've found the Zims(short for Zimbabweans) are quite friendly and honest. However, like the people of Botswana, they are accustomed to dealing with tourists and will not always be at your service - if that makes any sense.
Other attractions here like the river rafting, kayaking, bungee jumping, balloon riding, and ganja smoking - really don't appeal to me, since if I wanted any of those "adventure" items I could do them at home.
Plus, there are a great deal of old white people on this side of the falls; and surely a lot more bitter vendors who must be a bit cynical at the white people for their rudeness I'm sure.




And Cecil Rhodes - I will soon learn more about him. I did not know that Zimbabwe was called Rhodesia all the way up until 1980, when they finally gained their independence. He is also credited with discovering the falls, since obviously they were buried under several feet of dirt and grass before he excavated them, thereby "discovering" them. Yeah, Cecil - like you're the first one to actually have seen these things. You probably just threatened a bunch of Africans to show you how to get there.








Zimbabwe's side is certainly more scenic, and has some better viewpoints of these damned falls. But also a lot more tourists. If you're really a falls buff, or have a little extra time, go for the Zimbabwe side. But for simple peace of mind and rest, I would suggest the Zambian side.

Travelling through Zimbabwe will be an interesting contrast. I may as well go with the flow and do the tourist thing. Unfortunately it's tough to get around to the weird places without your own wheels, but I'll have to do what I can. I'm taking a train to Bulawayo tonight; some kid told me it's not coming. I wonder why he would - I already bought a ticket, so obviously he's lying. What does he want out of me? Should I walk? Or is he just trying to see how gullible these dumb white people are?






Bulawayo
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