The crossroads of the planet boasts a cosmopolitan modern capital, very reminiscent of Macau. Sitting on the oceanside, tall but bland office buildings; and nestled in the corner is the old city, a museum-like patch of cobblestone streets and quaint colonial buildings with a sweeping view of the commercial centre as well as ships entering and leaving the canal. On the other side of the city is the really old city, a surprisingly relaxing area of old buildings from the first Spanish settlement in the area. The ancient, the old, and the new. Panama has kept good track of its history; although evidence of Noriega's mess which he left behind is very thin.




A bustling pedestrian mall defines Panama city's core, as well as rampant Americanization. Panama has long been a pet project of the Americans: they engineered the canal, and still protect it, even after the official handover of the canal to Panama. Panama's currency is called the Balboa, pegged at 1:1 with the U.S. dollar, but they have no paper money; only U.S. bills exist, although they do have their own coins. Free trade, American businesses galore, and rich neighbourhoods are a direct result of all this politico-economic engineering.




For most tourists, Panama City will either be the beginning or the end of a central American journey. Panama city is the last city of any real size on the trans-American highway as well. The highway ends about 300km south, and the missing link begins - there's no road into Colombia, thus making no link between the Americas.








And let's not forget the Demon Buses - or Red Buses, as they call them. Dressed up with every possible knick knack you can buy down here, and there are a great many of them, the Panamanians do an amazing job of making their public buses(actually school buses) the most colourful things on the road. And extremely loud, with their airhorns, which they blast endlessly into the early morning. These beasts are mean things, but riding in one is a seminal experience of Panama City, and the entire country for that matter.




So Panama is both the link between the oceans and the missing link between the continents. For myself, the most pressing question in my mind is still why I am here. The word had been overpowering my mind for the past few months, and I thought that I should follow my instincts. Central America is a region I had not visited, of course, but the question still persists in my mind. I have six days to find out.










Colon, The Gatun Locks, & Portobelo
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