If we, in B.C., are slightly peeved by the concept that Quebec(because of its French heritage) is the only distinct society in Canada, then the Newfoundlanders are just downright pissed, in more ways than one. Their accents, architecture, cooking, all the butt of jokes across Canada, are their pride - so much so that their licence plates have the slogan 'A World Of Difference'.
And you can understand western alienation here - it's 3200km to Ireland, 7775km to Victoria - more than twice the distance to the west coast of the country. Closer to Europe than us by more than 2000 kilometres, St. John's is a fine example of Canada's diversity - everyone seems to recognize this except the Quebecois, the damned chauvinistic pigs.
But this pub's got a good turnout for a sunday - George St. must be hopping on fridays and saturdays. It's a party town - a yougn town, a place to drink and dance every night away.
But will this influx of youth and modern living compromise the Newfoundland culture? Let's hope not. Perhaps the accents of the people will be lost with time - it's only natural as St. John's becomes more cosmopolitan. Tourism Newfoundland shouldn't let it happen.
But you can only be a master of your own time, really - and the times will change. But the families here are inextricably from Ireland - a mutated Irish fishing culture here. And although I can't prove it, it feels like a rough and tumble crowd. But it's a world apart from every province, except maybe Nova Scotia - but N.S. is more lush and less reliant on fishing. This is it - the cornerstone of a province that renders Quebec's "distinct society" argument moot - and proves that we're all just as different in this massive country.

The young people may be losing the Newfoundland accent, but they definitely have not lost sight of their heritage and culture. O'Reilly's pub had two Irishmen playing folk tunes, including many a Newfoundland and Nova Scotia tune - and I was the only person in the pub who didn't know the words. Their dances and songs will hopefully be eternal; surely they will change from istruments and acoustics, but their feel is the same as ever. But, since the culture of Atlantic Canada isn't protected like the culture of almighty Quebec, will it survive the worldwide homogenization we are experiencing? Also, since these people are essentially english speaking, the most obvious of cultural barriers, language, is not there. Then, does this make them not distinct?
And St. John's is transforming - the nightlife in this city is staggering. Certainly, for vibrancy and ease of access it embarasses Vancouver badly. There are tonnes of pubs, clubs, and 24-hour eateries - and a youthful population who are more than willing to soak it up without mercy.
There are elements that work against this city being the nightlife capital of Canada - the awful weather for one. How's the nightlife in the snow? Can it weather the vicious Atlantic winter? Also, if so many people here are so poor, why do so many of them drop $50 into drinks on an average night?
St. John's is changing now - that's obvious of course. Seven years ago, when all these people did was fish, certainly it was a more insular society. But now to diversify, they are reaching out to the world, and the world is making the voyage out here to see if it's worth spending some time in. Certainly, it is. The youthful population is a huge surprise, you would think that the kids would leave their dying province and head for cities with more opportunity, repor, and intensity. But the reverse has occured.
The youths have transformed the town into a place where they may want to live, and as I said, held onto their cultural heritage. Someone's messing with the lights in the cafe I'm in right now - it's 24 hours, there's shouldn't be a last call!
But when it's all said and done, St. John's has an unexpected vibrancy due to its youth and an uncertain but optimistic future. Will the party atmosphere here reach critical mass? How will that affect real business? Certainly the older population won't mind, since it was their tradition to wander down to the pub every night. But I think the old days are either over or here again - meaning that the old days of the major 19th century crossroads may become revived here; or, the sleepy fishin' town is gone forever.
But when you look at the history of the city, it's always had an unexpected path: I wouldn't think anyone in their right mind would found a major port this far north, let alone think that it would prosper, let alone think that it would be an object to protect heavily throughout every war the british were involved in, as a major supply port to Britain. It's a rough and tough town that always seems to do the unexpected - and now, unexpectedly, 500 years after its founding, St. John's is a party haven - a party haven on a barren, rocky, windswept, vicious edge of the world. That's a tough bunch on the dance floor.

-September 1999







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