That afternoon we crammed ourselves into the back of a shared taxi and went north; but not before some traditional Senegalese grub, a grub that appears to be the only grub that the locals eat regularily: fish parts over steamed rice. To get the full effect, be sure to ask for tap water from a jerry can and plenty of ants crawling around your metal plate. Also, only eat it with either your hands or one big spoon. No one said I came here to sample haute cuisine. Afternoon found me drifthing and trying to make sure my legs weren't falling asleep, making minor adjustments in the rear of the taxi so I could un-cramp my body parts. Perhaps four hours later we arrived in St. Louis. The original capital of Senegal, and once France's main colony on the west coast of Africa, St. Louis these days has tourism in full effect for its industry. A few colonial towns, a small park dedicated to its founder, internet cafes, and a few hostels. Plenty of backpacker types, along with bars and crowds of idle Senegalese. Fishing is also a major practice here, and in the twilight we wandered over to the ocean to watch the fishermen pull in their nets and boats. Goats cluttered the intersections, along with minibuses and of course groups of children. Interesting to note how rustic even this major tourist spot is. Compared to parts of southern Africa, infrastructure is still sorely lacking. Poverty is openly rampant. And the vehicles are all very old. Senegal, in fact, is far poorer than I had anticipated. Perhaps this means it is closer to the 'real' Africa than the southern countries, but in reality, it is simply less developed and far more impoverished. Surprising, then, that it sees a large number of tourists. They bring their money in, but it has not wholly transformed these places as it has in other touristic towns: Lallibella in Ethiopia, for example. We whiled away the time drinking in bars, me picking up the tab. They were quiet for this kind of evening; yet he did his job and sweet talked our way past cover charges. Typical backpacker symbols were rife: Che Guevera, young European girls, fancy restaurants that stood empty. A touristic paradise in the low season. Indeed, apparently November was the best time to come around according to him. Something to note about St. Louis is how it was built on an island just off the coast, perhaps a few hundred metres. When you're a colonial power, best to segregate yourself. In this way they could defend themselves easier if the natives, at that time their slaves, turned nasty. to Nouakchott Back