Something has to be said for Macau - I'm not sure what it is, but it's something. Confused, sort of, between Spanish and English(although I suppose you'd expect me to say Portugese and Chinese). The casinos are a facade; they are not what the reality of this place is about.

The fading old Portugese settlements, flung into the scrunched city of modern Asian capitalism - unlike Hong Kong, where all of the colonial architecture is kept in a restored state, here in Macau the majority of it has been left to rot. Wandering the tiny streets, you can see the old stains of colours long faded on cement buildings, old wooden shutters and doors that look centuries old; the alleyways of Macau are dirtier, grungier than Hong Kong, and the fact that there's a bunch of casinos here is the only thing that makes this little colony thrive. Many people ignore visiting Macau, assuming that it's just a big casino. Such is not the case - this is a fascinating hybrid of Chinese and European, and nowwhere near as pretentious as Hong Kong. It feels far more real in Macau - it feels more like human nature has been left to take its course without regard to how visitors would perceive it. Sure, the Macanese economy is still based around duty free and lousy nightclubs and casinos which dot the waterfront, but the true downtown of the city is the most interesting. A European China. Or perhaps, a Chinese Europe. The hybridization of the society is Macau's true strongpoint, and for this it is a very memorable stop for me. The mix is fascinating; to stare across the city from an ancient Portugese fort, and see the potent mix of elements and history that has created this tiny enclave on the edge of China.

-March 1999



Back