Baghdad has proven to be fascinating, an ancient city wrought by war once again, but everything persists as it always does. Adamant at my position of being strictly a tourist here, wandering from mosque to mosque and along the Tigris river, though sometimes the war damage would get the best of my clicking camera. As well, many sites that had been taken for granted in the past are now no longer available to the casual tourist as the Americans have blocked them off in an effort to turn the centre into a massive military camp. Saddam's Art Museum and the Musem of Modern Art have been looted, the windows blown out, a huge painting of the former Mister Big now torn down, the courtyards strewn with rubble. Collapsed buildings make up the perimetre of the 'green zone', that so-called 'safe' area which has been under constant attack most frequently these days in the city. "You are not safe here," every cab driver would echo to me. Though, and I say this cautiously, perhaps this city is less dangerous than people assume it is. Yes, the helicopters thunder overhead just metres above the rooftops of apartments and traffic is often interrupted by the clanking of a tank and humvees roaring through roundabouts, but this is not Mogadishu, and it's not eastern Congo- these people have an economy, and one that is thriving in spite of the occupation... oops, I mean 'Liberation'. Whatever. At least I can walk from my hotel to this internet cafe, and to some great kebab restaurants on the same street. I was even checking out the crowded souqs yesterday. Try doing that in southern Somalia, or Chechnya. Baghdad is quite cosmopolitan - only about half of the women wear a veil of some sort, plenty of citizens speak at least a little english, the roads and street sides are packed with people, and sure - there are plenty of collapsed buildings and gutted communications towers to be seen. It is also intensely arabian - people love their wailing Arab music and kebabs, not a burger joint or a Britney Spears song in sight. Ctesiphon (Sal Man Pak)