12:00am - Very western this place is. 30% of the population are white British or mixed Caucasian. Even the city is different than what I had anticipated -the old colony feels just like Europe, and looks like it too with all of the westerners here. the colonial architecture is amazing - clean, polished, European. And intermingled is the mega Asian metropolis with some fine examples of postmodern architecture.
What an expat city - this could easily be Europe where I am now. On the mainland(Kowloon peninsula) is a different story - that's the traditional Chinese slum, a mess of garbage and crappy cars and shameless 'hostess' bars. Here it's upbeat, western, and there's more than a fair share of people looking to have fun.
This whole district(Lan Kwai Fong) is like a big club - it's the only place to be in town at night. You could probably hook up with a different person every night for along time if you wanted to. But at ten bucks a beer it will cost you. This little restaurant I'm in is costing me forty bucks, the most expensive meal i've had in a long time. Oh well, I learned don't eat in Lan Kwai Fong. Oh yes, my current beer is a HK$55 guinness(check out a currency converter for your respective jaw to drop). The sandwich was HK$95 - it was good but definitely not that good. And now it's 1:30 in the morning and I have no clue where I'm going to sleep - or sleep at all. I've never done this before - usually my very first priority is checking into a hostel or hotel somewhere. But maybe I'll just skip on the hostel bill tonight since dinner cost me my left thigh, and slum it in Hong Kong for tonight - I doubt I'd be the first traveller to do so.
I have to get to Victoria Peak tonight - nothing else to do, and I think the trams run all night. It's an amazing thing you know - the budget hotels are in the red light district and on my way here I said myself 'oh no, I'd never go there, some bad things might happen, and now I'm sitting in a restaurant at 1:45 in the morning with no hope of finding accomodations. But I feel invigorated because of it, and not scared in the least. I guess that's sort of a sign of being an experienced traveller, yes? Or just plain foolish.
I want to see sunrise in this city - it's compelling at night, maybe it will disappoint during the days. But at least I'll be able to take pictures in the day.

So it's 2:15 now and I've ducked out of the restaurant in to a quiet bar on the 'edge' of Lan Kwai Fong - or is it Fai Lan Kwon? I'll never get it right. I've bought another beer(only HK$34 for a Carlsberg) and at this rate I'll get free accomodations from the police after they picked my hammered body up off of the street. This little enclave of Long Fwai Kan is the only place active in the city right now - and the crowds here are dwindling, too. But there's still a few clubs thumping out tunes. What a contrast - this city is for westerners and Cantonese alike. There's no differentiation between the two here, they're both thoroughly interconnected. But there is a difference in living conditions, and the Europeans definitely have the advantage over the Chinese. Well Duh.

2:30am: Uh oh. The bar(called Club 64- where's the club?) I'm in just announced that it's closing, which means that I'll have to toss back this pint of Carlsberg in record time. I hope I can walk after, and I hope I don't puke. Well, it's back to the walking circuit, around in circles - this is the only place in town where something is actually happening at this time of night. And not much is happening - the Hong Kongers don't measure up to the New Yorkers, but for China they are pretty damned good you have to admit.

but now it's 3am and there's a whole wave of new people coming down the main street, but nothing's open!

3:40am: I have to go to the bathroom. Call me a wimp, but all that walking and beer drinking has taken its toll. I've walked to the sculpture garden and am now seated on the proverbial park bench waiting for sunlight or 7:00am to come. Now it's probably too late to try and check into a hotel(at least one that doesn't rent by the hour), but it's also too early to find a public washroom that's open and that's what bothers me the most.

3:55am: A first sign of danger - some guy is staring at me and following me. What does he want - my money, or is he looking for something more involved like a fresh anus? He's far too obvious to be a thief. Anyways, I'm not not going to stick around to find out. He's trying hard to make it look like he's not following me, but he just walked behind something - I turn around a corner and disappear, walking in the opposite direction. I think I lost him.

4:20am: Well, that's what sewer grates are for, right? Anyways, I feel much more relieved and can better focus on the task at hand - not getting arrested for loitering. My legs are beginning to get sore, so I should rest more frequently as this is my big day for taking pictures of the city. If you see these pictures, you'll be surprised - some of them look exactly like Europe.

4:45am: Oh, so there is a public washroom in the city that's open at this hour - even though it stinks like Hell. There are so many giant open marble structures in this city that it feels like an ancient ruin when you're walking through it at this time of the night. No security, no cameras, just a giant empty marble forum on your way to the Macau ferry pier. Very interesting.

5:10am: The airport express station opened, which allows me to visit its clean public washrooms. I was looking at the big tourist map on the wall when some old cantonese lady shuffled over and said something to me. I shrugged my shoulders. So she said it again at the exact same speed and volume, perhaps hoping that maybe I would then understand what she said. I threw my hands up and she walked away.
In the washroom as I was combing my hair some chinese guy disappeared into a stall started making bodily noises that I had never thought possible - including many karate styled "hai!" as he tried to extract whatever it was that had lodged itself in him. That old lady is still wandering around me as I sit here and write this. I guess she doesn't have anything better to do.

5:30: But reflecting on Lin Kwai Fong - these Brits know how to socialize. Earlier this evening the place was most definitely vibrant. For such a massive city it's sort of a letdown how small it is - I think it should be bigger. We're about 10 years behind in the western pop music here, too. Arrested Development? Where's the cutting edge stuff? Is there any in this town? If it's anywhere in Asia it's in Tokyo I suppose. And one of the beers I drank was Flipino - and HK$30 - but hey, it's the place to be, right?
You have to give the Brits some credit(or lack?) for making such an enclave in the far east. Probably just like London here. And one of the bars was blasting U2- Joshua Tree stuff! This takes us back to, oh, 1987 or so? Or was it from 89? I forget really. But the Philipino beer is called San Miguel for future reference - not like I'd actually want to drink it again.
And don't forget the ultra-pretense of the Cafe Des Artistes - do I dare enter? But this place draws a certain crowd - the pretentious white crowd. Well, I suppose I should move on soon - or should I? The seat here is comfortable, and the old lady has left. It's 5:45 now, and I do believe I can sneak in a half hour of sleep while pretending to just sit here.

6:30: Much better. Now I'll get over to the peak tram and see what this place looks like in the daytime. The first tram to the peak leaves at 7:00. I hope it's not crowded.

Well, it was an interesting experience nonetheless, being homeless in Hong Kong. Maybe I'll write a travel book for Hong Kong on places to stay, but instead of Lonely Planet's budget, middle, and top end I'll have dumpsters, sidewalks and park benches listed. Sound good?

-March 1999

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