Botswana is the only Africa country without foreign debt, and overall is probably the most successful of the southern African countries. Their tourism ads make sure that tourists realize that Botswana is successful. Why? As I found out, because of its diamond mines. For once, it looks like the local population is benefiting from its resources in Africa.
But the people of Botswana are aware of their relative success and domestic stability, compared to their neighbours - I sense a nationalism here. They play their own music on the bus, not American rap or Canadian country music. They have an air of being the best of their region - a slight arrogance. No one is in tattered clothes; no children are going hungry. Gaberone is a spic and span small city, with nary a beggar in sight. There is development going on in the city, renovations of sidewalks and new buildings going up, and little evidence of any level of poverty.This is good; but as I mentioned, their pride in themselves is a shock after the passive generosity of the previous countries.




Also, there's little to see in Gaberone. There are no hostels or backpacker haunts, so I have a hotel room which I think is costing about CDN$45 a night if my exchange rate is correct - and a price like this is shocking after all of the cheap hotels in Zambia and the hostels in Zimbabwe - but really it's a fair price for a downtown hotel with a private bathroom.
The best thing I did during my day and a half in Gaberone was hike up the mountain near the city, mount Kgale; you can walk there, as I did, on the side of the road, or take a vehicle of some sort. You get a great view of the surrounding terrain, the low mountains, and get to see all sorts of large frightening types of bugs. One bug, about three inches long, looking like a large bumblebee, just freaked me right out. Any bug that lands on a branch and makes it sway a little is a bug I don't want to be near, especially when it has a stinger. There are insects in this part of the world that would fit great in any science fiction movie. Luckily, none of them seem too interested in devouring humans.




Gaberone also does not have a shortage of white people; my first thought was these these are the expats in the city, this being the capital and having all of the embassies for the country. However, I think that many of them are migrants from South Africa - coming here for a better life. Things are probably better here, if I believe the stories I have heard of south Africa. And today the only real 'sight' within the city limits is closed - the national museum and gallery.

And that's Gaberone. Kentucky Fried Chickens and supermarkets everywhere. No mud huts in the distance. This is the new Africa - sad looking starving children are nowwhere to be seen. I guess all of the starving children are being held captive in Sally Struther's back yard.

Also, I have mixed emotions as I sit here in small pleasant quiet Gaberone and perpare myself for the crime capital of the world. What do I expect? Will it be as bad as people say? That would be surprising. I am no stranger to "dangerous" cities - Beirut, Phnom Penh, Mexico City, New York, Los Angeles, Sao Paulo, Surrey British Columbia - none of them proved to have as mean the streets as they were supposed to have.
But you have to treat each city and experience separately - if Jo'burg is as nasty as they say it is, I plan on being prepared. I'll plan for the worst. But never forget that so many million people live in the city, and haven't left yet; this is the best indicator that the city is navigable. We'll see. And of course, I wouldn't avoid this city for anything - the questions in my mind like 'can I survive such a vicious city?' are pressing ones, and these tests of mind and body are what travel is all about for me. So begins the test. We shall see if I pass.





Johannesburg
Back