I went to Eritrea to learn about the other side of the coin. The Ethiopians whom I had met last year were a fascinating people who were doing their duty by defending their country against the arrogant Eritreans, who somehow thought that they could define the borders with their much larger and much more powerful neighbour.
When I returned, I started seeing news reports and web pages talking about the evil Ethiopians and their vindictive ways against the Eritreans. I didn't buy it. However I did think that my opinion could not be completely informed without a visit to Eritrea, and to decide for myself if these people deserve my sympathy, or even need it.
The quick answers are: No and No. They don't want my sympathy, or that of the world. I sensed a resilience, and an interest in showing the world what the word "independence" means. Yes, there is begging in Asmara, but it's mostly from small kids. Getting ripped off, or even overcharged, is almost unheard of. The Eritreans are more comfortable, and more indifferent, to the international community. This is mostly due to the peacekeeping effort, but it's also something else - a desire to show the world that they deserve their independence, and control their own destiny. It's a different state of mind than the Ethiopians - it's the state of Eritrea.
What I can give the Eritreans is my respect. They deserve it, for not trying to play the leper in a troubled region. It's odd to see in Africa - and refreshing to see that these people have dignity.
I don't know where I stand with the war. Eritrea's borders are a colonial product in their entirety, and for them to think they should be different is sheer arrogance - my opinion hasn't changed on that. But in a world where talk of ideology and liberation are nearly nonexistent at this point, it's refreshing to see. It's sad, though, that the Eritreans do not see that they are out gunned by a much larger nation to the south. On the other hand, they beat the Ethiopians for their independence, so I suppose they think they can beat them again.
With this buffer zone the Eritreans will have time to lick their wounds, though. Will the UN mission solve the differences between Ethiopia and Eritrea? Not likely. The UN will persist, though, because it desperately wants peacekeeping to work - actually anything they do to work - in Africa.





The failure of this mission would be another blow to the UN's horrible track record on the continent. I don't think the two sides will start fighting until the UN leaves. The international community will walk away, thinking its tall house of cards is sturdy and well crafted; only to hear it collapse shortly after, and turn around to realize that everything it has built has been demolished. And will the UN start again? Or just abandon the project altogether?

It's time to carefully consider my options - if I don't make this flight tonight, I have a backup ticket to Cairo, and then to either Frankfurt or London. I'm not keen on visiting Cairo right now, and if I do, it won't be for long; but we'll see what gets thrown my way.

-march 2001


And then, to.....

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* A full account of my visit to this country is available in my yet to be published book, Means To An Exit. If you are an agent or publisher and would like to receive an outline and manuscript, please Contact Me.