Albania.

Yes, Albania. Called many things by many people, "tourist appeal" not being one of them. Why go? Because it's one of those blank spots - look at an upscale guidebook to Europe, or Eastern Europe - there are little grey areas that the book does not cover. Usually because they are beyond the scope of the book - or too unstable to be of interest. Albania, apparently, is the latter.

Other reasons - the words "ethnic Albanian" have been repeated ad nauseum in the media, at least here in Canada. What's an ethnic Albanian? Why are they causing so much trouble? Why are these headlines always dominating my newspaper? And why can't I fly there from London, if it's right in the middle of Europe? What kind of place is this, anyway, that it's right over there from Italy, but it simply does not exist to those EU big boys like the UK, France, and even big old Germany? It's odd as hell, I tell you, and that is why I wish to visit.

Oh yes, and there is that other term which is often thrown around all over the place - 'Balkanized'. Is that anything like Galvanized? It has been used too often and now means nothing. Or everything. Or a rough translation - sharp divisions in areas that keep on getting smaller, and smaller. And smaller. Few parts of the world are disintegrating as steadily as the "Balkans". The only other region - the northern Caucasus, is enduring similar but protracted events, and has an open door policy for guests that can really blow your schedule. And since I am on a tight schedule, the more user friendly "Balkans" attracted me. So here I am.

On my way to Albania; I wonder if Ronald the Clown has invaded yet: he is the true symbol of a burgeoning middle class. I've read than an AK47 in Albania costs about as much as a happy meal back home. But do you give them one happy meal, or give them the AK47 that has the potential to supply numerous happy meals? Apparently the entrepreneurial spirit is thriving in Albania - with weapons. All of this is why it is greyed out in your guidebook.

Albania - the crust at the bottom of the armpit of Europe; or so I would believe. Just across from the back heel of Italy. Not as many sights as its neighbour Greece, and close enough to Kosovo and Yugoslavia to scare tourists away. I wonder if I will meet any expats who will berate me for coming - just because I don't have a Land Rover with an obscure NGO flag doesn't mean I'm not allowed to be here.

The Balkans are Europe's own little compost - a dumping ground for all of the racial tension that surprisingly is almost unapparent to the passing traveller in western Europe. Or something. But all analysis aside, let's go see it - the anti-tourist attraction. Albania - nothing attractive about it. Why?




Tirana



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