Overall, though, this has been an amazing journey. Lusaka, New York, and London seem like a different world in my memory - I have come a long way; not only geographically,but personally as well. I am leaps and bounds ahead of where I was before I came to Africa.
The good and the bad have all been good - getting ripped off and robbed go almost hand in hand with extensive travelling. After 31 countries, to only be robbed once is pretty good. And the experience will help me to refine what I carry around with me in dangerous cities. So, it will be disposable cameras only in my dangerous downtown care package from now on, as well as a cheap watch. I don't like carrying disposable cameras around, and in general don't really like taking pictures with them, but such is life.
The end is almost near - Pretoria, a western yet African city, seems a perfect way to end. I have gone from the remote central plains of Zambia to the economic and commercial hub of Southern Africa. And in between I have seen a great many things, and experienced a great many things. Thanks to everyone and everything who contributed to my understanding of the continent along the way - even the thieves, although if I ever see them again(as if I would recognize them) I'll break their necks. I really don't harbour any strong resentment or regret to those thieves, but I do hope that justice descends on Jo'burg one day - and solace can be had in the fact that most of those kids don't live more than five years beyond their joining a street gang. And to me, really, the possessions are negligible; I only feel bad because I feel like I contributed to the problem by handing over valuables to kids who will sell them for some money to blow on drugs. That's all I care about - seeing the kid who guided me around Mongu buy a new pair of shoes with the money I gave him felt good - and on the other hand, he put the rest toward drugs. It's hard to accept that the problems in these countries aren't going to change overnight - and even though I helped the kid, I also fostered his drug addiction.
Moral dilemmas are rife when you hand over anything to a local for nothing - I gave a homeless guy two apples in Mbabane in Swaziland, after he was hounding me for money; but I have a strong feeling he kept on begging other people for money. I'd feel okay if those thieves would use that dough for something good; but their life is short, and they know it. Best to waste your few days in drug induced bliss than face the harsh realities of being alive.
There are few answers. And I can't pretend to think that I will help any great deal. The real monumental problems are in South Africa - and the only thing that will cure those problems is time.

.......And it's almost time for me to go. Let's hope that the flight has a few seats open for the intrepid airline employees on standby, and let's hope that Africa south one day becomes as stable and prosperous as Europe or North America. I know it's already halfway there. I wish everyone I met the fine gift of a fate that they laid out for themselves. And I hope that I do not soon forget the lessons that this trip to Africa has taught me.

-March 2000




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* A full account of my visit to this country is available in my yet to be published book, Means To An Exit. If you are an agent or publisher and would like to receive an outline and manuscript, please Contact Me.